The American manicure may not be new, but since Margot Robbie reminded the world of its merits at this year’s Oscars ceremony it’s having a moment. The perfect collision of ‘90s nostalgia with the your-nails-but-better look, this softer version of the traditional French manicure sidesteps trends but reflects a current mood.
“It’s a nod to the ‘clean’ aesthetic that has grown in popularity,” says Metta Francis, London manicurist and founder of Nails by Mets, being all about a healthy natural finish that reads as ‘done’, but in an understated way. The American manicure's appeal also lies in its potential to suit all (provided nails have some length), and that it compliments all clothing colours and styles.
The key difference between the American and French is the former’s subtly. “The tips are painted a milkier white compared to a stark white, and a more natural colour is then applied over the whole nail, including over the tips.” Francis adds that this results in off-white tips, which delivers a very natural look. “From afar it may not be obvious that the tips are even painted.” See slide two of the following Instagram post to see Robbie’s chic example:
View full post on Instagram
How to achieve an American manicure
Given that the American manicure requires precisely painted tips, it might be one to request of a pro if you don’t have the steadiest hand yourself. But whether you have it done at a salon or do it yourself at home, note that you’ll need to allow more time for the American manicure compared to a single-shade mani, “as it takes a little longer to perfect the white tips and layer with polish”.
View full post on InstagramBelow, Francis shares her top tips and product recommendations for the American manicure.
“For the tips, I would recommend CND's Vinylux Long Wear Polish in White Wedding. It's a beautiful milky white which paints on perfectly with no chalkiness or streaks.” Apply it using a detailer brush, like the United Beauty Products Ltd. The Fine Liner Brush, while resting the fingers being painted on a flat surface for extra stability.
“If you're not confident in painting the tips, you can use a silicone nail stamp [like the Nails.Inc French Mani Nail Stamper] or a Beautyblender [it's a TikTok hack] to create the tips,” Francis suggests. Then, “use an angled nail or make-up brush, dipped in nail polish remover, to tidy up and perfect the curve–or ‘smile line’–of the tip, and to clean up around the nails”.
Once dry, apply your sheer all-over colour, building it up in layers until you achieve your desired effect. For Robbie’s American manicure at the Academy Awards, manicurist Betina Goldstein painted her nails (including the milky white tips painted first) with the Chanel Le Vernis in Ballerina, adding a veil of colour in a ballet shoe hue. Similar to this is the Kure Bazaar French Rose Glow Nail Polish which Francis said was made for this look as it's so sheer and “generally looks great on everyone”. If you prefer a less pinky finish, she suggests trying the Nails.Inc Back to Life Recovery Treatment, which is a sheer, milky beige that looks especially good on warmer and olive skin tones (and it also doubles as a base coat). Alternatively, the CND Vinylux Long Wear Polish in Nude Knickers, “a semi-sheer neutral-brown shade, is perfect for darker skins”.
If you opt for a longer-lasting gel option, try the Artistic Correction Strengthening Gel in Pink Concealer, “which suits all skin tones”, Francis adds.
View full post on InstagramHow to maintain the American manicure
“The American manicure is so subtle that when the nails start to grow out it won't be obvious, so you may be able to go a little longer between manicures,” feels Francis, “especially if using cuticle oil twice daily”. This will keep the nail beds looking neat and hydrated, making the make the manicure last longer.
Another way to ensure its longevity, if the manicure was achieved using regular polish as opposed to gel, is to not only use a long-lasting clear top coat as a finishing step, but as a top-up days after too. “Apply a very thin layer of top coat every two-to-three days to protect the manicure and keep it looking fresh and shiny,” says Francis. “My favourite is the CND Vinylux Long Lasting Topcoat for a flawless finish.”
