Shaving the fuzz – known as vellus hair – off the face has become more commonplace over the past few years, with sales of dermaplaning devices rising since the pandemic. CurrentBody, which stock the biggest selection of electrical health and beauty products in the world, saw a 58 per cent uplift in its dermaplaning category following the first lockdown. But with many now happily braving the blade at-home, we ask what are the benefits of dermaplaning beyond hair removal, and whether we should be opting for a DIY version of what is also a professional treatment at all?
What is dermaplaning?
For those unfamiliar with the concept, "dermaplaning is one of the easiest ways of removing unwanted hair from the face,” explains the CEO of CurrentBody Laurence Newman. “In the same way that shaving works, it uses a painless blade to gently scrape away facial hair, or 'peach fuzz', and rids the skin of any build-up of dead skin cells, all which can contribute to making your skin look dull or uneven.”
How is dermaplaning different to shaving?
"Dermaplaning is different from shaving, as it is performed with a specifically designed surgical scalpel," explains Dr Jinah Yoo, consultant dermatologist and founder of Maylin by Dr Jinah Yoo. "It is typically done by a trained professional in a controlled and sterile environment to ensure safety," Dr Yoo adds. "It is often used as a preparation step before other skincare treatments, such as chemical peels or laser treatments, as it helps these treatments penetrate more effectively."
The benefits of dermaplaning
The most celebrated benefit of dermaplaning is the temporary removal of hair, which results in a polished canvas for make-up as products can glide on more evenly without getting caught on the fine fuzz. But it also exfoliates the skin too, as Dr Yoo explains: "Firstly, it provides exfoliation by effectively removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells. This process helps to reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath, giving the complexion a refreshed and rejuvenated appearance. By eliminating this buildup of dead skin cells, dermaplaning can help improve the texture of the skin, making it feel smoother and more even."
Dermaplaning also aids in enhancing the absorption of skincare products, she says. "Afterwards, the freshly exfoliated skin can better absorb topical treatments, serums, and moisturisers. This increased absorption can maximise the effectiveness of these products, allowing them to penetrate more deeply into the skin and provide optimal results."
Who should avoid dermaplaning?
“Those with active acne, any infection or cold sores in the areas of concern," says plastic and cosmetic surgeon Dr Jonquille Chantrey. Why? "Due to the spreading of potential bacteria or virus this can lead to a wider spread infection that can cause more inflammation, sometimes pigmentation and even scarring."
Another reason to steer clear of dermaplaning, she explains, is "if this was used on darker hair in a patient with medical conditions such as polycystic ovaries disease (who suffer with excess hair), as misuse could lead to potential worsening of the hair growth".
Should you be dermaplaning at home?
While the aforementioned benefits are tempting, it's important to remember that there are downsides to dermaplaning if it's not carried out properly.
"While there are at-home dermaplaning tools available, it is generally recommended to have the procedure done by a trained professional to minimise the risks," says Dr Sabina Sinead Hanoman-Singh, the aesthetic doctor for CREO Clinic. "Performing dermaplaning at home without proper sterilisation techniques may lead to skin irritation, cuts, infections and even scarring."
If you do consider DIY dermaplaning, always use a high-quality product and follow the exact instructions provided, including any aftercare and the regular replacement of blades.
What can I expect from a dermaplaning appointment?
Depending on where you go, professional dermaplaning treatments can cost upwards of £40 for a session, with repeat appointments recommended every four-to-six weeks.
In your appointment, the aesthetician will clean the skin, removing any make-up and other debris that could clog up your pores and lead to ingrown hairs. They will then begin using soft, short strokes with a surgical blade at a 45-degree angle to remove the hair, cleaning the blade as they go. The process should be completely painless, and besides some short-term redness for those with sensitive skin, it requires no downtime.
As with most facial treatments, consistent aftercare will impact the efficaciousness and longevity of results. Dr Yoo recommends a hydrating moisturiser to soothe the skin and maintain hydration while avoiding potent actives following your session, as well as always using broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF30 to protect the newly exposed skin from sun damage.
"If proper pre- and post-treatment care is not followed, such as using comedogenic products or not keeping the skin clean, it is possible for breakouts to occur," Dr Hanoman-Singh adds.
What else should people know when considering dermaplaning?
One alternative is focusing on skincare products that can offer similar results. "Another way to deeply exfoliate and remove the dead build-up of thick skin cells at home is with skincare," describes Dr Chantrey. For example, "exfoliants that can brighten the skin and increase cell turnover making it smoother can be safe ways to get that glow and allow make-up to glide on. I recommend to my patients an exfoliation regime that includes a couple of drops of the SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator serum twice a week. When combined with daily SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Cleanser this really shifts those dead cells and brightens. My patients swear by them".
Other facial hair-removal options available on the market – both at-home and in-salon/clinic – include waxing, threading, laser treatment, electrolysis, plucking, and the use of hair removal cream. You can read all about facial hair removal here.
